40 days in the desert. Day 14

I tore myself from Burgos the first place on the road I wished I was able to stay awhile longer at. I've enjoyed the constant moving on the novelty of a new place every day. But this pilgrim city with it's magnificence, atmosphere, and joining of at least two caminos sucked me in. And of course I didn't want to say good bye to Leona who was staying behind and returning home. I didn't want the new chapter of the camino to begin just yet when I was getting so comfortable with the chapter I was in. I got up late, procrastinated and then eventually headed out of Burgos with it's rushing rivers, freshly cut lawns, tree-lined streets and countless sculptures paying homage to the pilgrim. Stefanie, who was also leaving the camino in Burgos sat in a coffee shop along the way saying good bye to all the pilgrims who had become her family for the last two weeks. We talked and got tearful and I continued along the way. It was as if every person and place I have ever left I said good bye to today. I wept for all of them. I wept for the end of the chapter in the camino. My heart ached and felt raw. It was good to cry, healing to release it all but sad to say good bye.

Entering into the new chapter and the mesita I met the devil in many guises. I persuaded a fellow pilgrim to come back on the camino and not hitch a ride only to become the focus of his anger and bitterness. He questioned and contorted everything I said, rubished and negated all the trust and light I felt growing in me. But I was having none of it and let him go on his way. A couple of other pilgrims tried to persuade me to get bus, a mad man started spouting rubbish at me, a vulture circled above our heads and the desert like monotony of the mesita shimmered ahead of us. It was like time had stopped. The day seemed to stretch out for an eternity. It was a relief then to meet a like minded Catalan who walked with me for the last 5 km. We shared our thoughts about life and the camino and how it was beginning to get under our skin. He let me walk on the easier path, kept making me drink water and took care of me. An angel in disguise. At San Bol we parted ways I went to the albergue and he continued to the next village. The ache in my heart returned as I realised this was the way of the camino; to meet beautiful people, share a little time together and part.

When I arrived at the oasis in the desert that is the San Bol albergue I was ready to break down. I was greeted by the tenderest of hospitaleros. They offered me fruit, let me rest and take a moment to absorb the sheer beauty around me. A little stone building with a round trulli like dining room housing a round table, a small forest of tall trees covered in orange moss, a river. All this in the middle if the desert. A cuban husband and wife ran this miniature albergue over-flowing with peace and gentleness in the middle of nowhere. Angels in the desert. Liz and I and a couple of other pilgrims (german and korean) sat together to eat an exquisite dinner of paella, salad and natilla. After dinner the electricity was cut off and We all sat outside to watch the sun set, lit candles to close out the day and bid adieu to this day of goodbyes, angels and devils.

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Location:Burgos to San Bol